الفهرس 
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Abstract
Abstract:
Pleating is the art of folding fabrics with different shapes which results in various densities and textures of fabrics. Pleats have been used to clothe the human body for thousands of years. Furthermore, pleating became effective in decorating clothes, in addition to its functional feature those who wears pleated clothes has better freedom in movement more than who wears clothes that does not include pleats.
The history of pleated fabrics dates back to the middle kingdom in Egypt, as well as in ancient Greek during the fifth century B.C.E and continued throughout history in several civilizations and eras. In the twentieth century, a number of fashion designers began in designing and implementing hand crafted pleats with more precision and new innovative methods, using different fabrics which helped in giving more flexibility in movement to the person dressed and keeping its shape for many years.
In recent decades, simple pleats were developed rapidly by using new manufacturing techniques. With the introduction of new materials and the takeover of origami techniques into design, pleats have become one of the most innovative contemporary designs. Modern designers use pleats in their work such as in fashion, architecture, jewelry and furniture; furthermore, pleats are used with a wide array of sheet materials as in fabric, plastic, metal and laminated wood.
This thesis explains different types of pleats and the basic pleating patterns in details in order to generate new ideas, and how to pleat fabrics permanently by different methods. The experimental work in this thesis is carried out on different types of fabrics to measure the efficiency of heat setting and to what extent the pleats are stable. This is achieved through conducting experimental tests such as thickness, weight, drapability, wettability, wicking, dimensional stability after washing and air permeability on pleated and not pleated fabrics of organza, brocade, taffeta, satin, chiffon and rosaline. Lastly, the conclusion of this thesis tests the hypotheses and offers a comprehensive explanation for the most preferable fabrics used in making geometrical pleats without affecting its mechanical or physical properties.
Keywords: pleats, pleating patterns, Heat setting, origami.
Research problem
from a field visit to one of the specialized workshops in Egypt that make geometrical pleats, it was observed that the patterns of the geometrical pleats that are implemented, are purchased from abroad and copies are made from these patterns, but there is no capability in making primary geometrical pleats patterns.
In this research the problem is represented in the following questions:
- What is the possibility in extracting geometrical pleats patterns and implementing the patterns on the fabrics by using heat setting in industry?
- What are the possible effects of the use of heat setting on the mechanical and physical properties of the pleated fabrics?
- What is the possibility in implementing geometrical pleats in garment design field?
Research significance
The research significance is concerned with creating geometrical pleats patterns and applying these pleats patterns in garments design through heat setting technique. Since pleating is an essential skill throughout history in fashion design, the need to find better techniques in order to generate new ideas, and how to pleat fabrics permanently by different methods is highly desirable. Moreover, the thesis aims to offer a comprehensive understanding on pleating with a greater focus on which fabrics are better in maintaining their shapes and that their properties are not greatly affected after applying heat setting in terms of thickness, weight, drapability, wettability, wicking, dimensional stability after washing and air permeability. Ultimately, the findings of this thesis will help fashion manufacturers and fashion designers, through applying the recommended approach derived from the results of this research, to make better decision when choosing which fabric is better to be used for pleating.
Research objectives
- Trying to create geometrical pleats patterns on paper and implementing the patterns on the fabrics by heat setting techniques, using these pleats in fashion design field.
- Measuring the efficiency of heat setting and to what extent the pleats are stable through conducting experimental tests on the mechanical and physical properties of the pleated fabrics such as thickness, weight, drapability, wettability, wicking, dimensional stability after washing and air permeability.
Research hypotheses
The research hypothesizes two statements that will be tested but essentially used to guide the research process. These include the following:
1. There is a statistical significant difference between dimensional stability of different pleated fabrics used in the thesis and the temperature degrees of washing.
2. There is a statistical significant difference between dimensional stability of different pleated fabrics used in the thesis and the type of pleat.
3. There is an effect of using heat setting on the mechanical and physical properties of the pleated fabrics used in the thesis.
4. There is an effect of implementing geometrical pleats on creating new garment designs.
Research limitation
The limitations of the thesis are:
- The types of fabrics used in this thesis are: organza (polyester), chiffon (polyester), brocade (polyester), satin (polyester), rosaline (nylon), taffeta (nylon).
- Experimental tests that were carried out in this thesis are: thickness, weight, drapability, wettability, wicking, dimensional stability after washing and air permeability.
- Implementing geometrical pleats by designing twenty different garment designs for women.
Research methodology
- Analytical method
- Experimental method
Research outline
Chapter 1: Introduction
History of pleats
- Pleats in ancient Egyptian garments.
- Pleats in Ethiopian garments
- Pleats in ancient Greek garments
- Pleats in Middle Ages
- Pleats during Renaissance period
- Pleats in the 18th century
- Pleats in the 19th century
- Pleats in the twentieth century
- Pleats in the twenty-first century
Types of pleats
- Basic pleats
- V- pleats
How pleats are made
- Pattern Pleating by Steaming
- Machine Pleating
- Shadowfolds
Chapter 2: Practical Work
- Pleats designs inspired from nature and its diagram
Chapter 3: Experimental work
Chapter 4: Results and Discussion
Consists of three sections:
The study on the possibility of extracting geometrical pleats patterns and implementing the patterns on the fabrics by using heat setting
- The chosen designs of pleats
- How chosen pleats are applied on fabrics
The study on the possible effects of the use of heat setting on the mechanical and physical properties of the pleated fabrics
- Results of experimental tests
The study on the possibility of implementing geometrical pleats in garment design field
- Suggested designs for women garments
Chapter 5
- Conclusion
- Recommendations
- References
- Appendices
- Thesis summary
- Arabic summary
Previous studies and literature review
The previous studies published earlier about pleating was mainly concerned about achieving geometrical structures and reducing symmetric shapes in folds. A study by Arthur Lebee titled “from Folds to Structures, a Review” that was published in 2015, provided an overview about developing folds and structures, the author mainly focused in this study on folded geometrical structures which are raising interest from the scientific community. In addition, the author argues as well that many mechanical designs of folded structures are achieved which reveals the efficiency and importance of applying folding concepts in the designs of structures. Arthur Lebee presented two main aspects in his work; firstly, the process of form-finding a structure through folding and secondly, forming shapes that can be derived from folding techniques. Furthermore, Lebee offered as well several interesting shapes derived from folding techniques and argues in the study that the new fabrication process of folded structures in the current era is based on numerical control and 3D printers, which make architects and designers closer to actual constructions. (8)
Additionally, a study by Pooya Sareh and Simon D. Guest titled “A Framework for the Symmetric Generalisation of the Miura-ori” that was published in 2015. In this study, the author emphasizes on how to generalize geometric framework of the Miura-ori while keeping the shape based on the concept of “stacking while folding” (9). Sareh and Guest explored as well reducing the symmetry found in Miura-ori fold pattern in order to get ”new patterns while preserving the flat-foldability condition at each node.” (9)
A study by Sarah Adel Titled “A Constructive Vision for the Innovation of 3D Designs Using Pleats Thermally Installed as One of the Innovative Technologies “that was published in 2020. The study aims to introduce innovative and diverse ideas on the used textiles as one of the artistic practices to create 3D designs on mannequin. Therefore, the study introduces the use of heat-setting methods on 3D pleats and complex hand-made plissé through the use of 3D mods and specialized machines for making plissé to add aesthetic effect with 3D features on the used fabrics and to implement the chosen designs by draping them using the 3D method.
Nevertheless, the previous studies reviewed did not tackle how to create innovative geometric pleat patterns and its applications on fabrics with heat-setting in the field of fashion design which will be addressed as well in this paper. This paper will build on the literature reviewed and previous studies in an attempt to combine the mentioned trends and to offer more comprehensive view on pleating and generating pleated fabrics through applying heat setting. In addition, the paper will present experiments to effectively analyze the effect of heat setting in generating pleats on fabrics and will present the implementation of the chosen pleats in designs of women garments.